Vol.29 "To Add" or "To Subtract"? The Philosophy of Silent Formal Wear.
- kaifuku8
- Dec 6
- 6 min read
Today is December 6th. As if the warmth until yesterday was a lie, Tokyo has suddenly revealed its winter face. The high is 11°C. The cold wind stings the skin, but finally, it is time for coats to shine. Nonetheless, the city dutifully plays Christmas songs, lights up illuminations, and pressures us: "Come on, it's the end of the year. Dress up. It's time to party."
Our POP UP event at Isetan Shinjuku, which started on Wednesday, is welcoming its first weekend with many visitors. I would like to take this opportunity to thank you all. Now, whether at the store or through inquiries on our website, the question that surges at this time of year is about "Occasion Wear."
Year-end parties, Christmas dinners, early preparations for thank-you parties, or weddings. What should one wear for these "Hare no Hi" (special occasions)?
So this time, I would like to delve a little deeper into the true nature of "FORMAL" as DOMELLE sees it, and our almost obsessive fixation on "Materials" and the color "Black." Since this will be a bit long, please prepare a Grande-sized coffee and join me.
Redefining "Formal"
Suddenly, don't you think formal wear in the world can be largely divided into two categories? They are "Formal that Adds" and "Formal that Subtracts."
Please note, I am speaking strictly about the "design" of the clothing itself.
The former is easy to understand. Voluminous skirts, delicate lace, sparkling bijoux. It is a style that loudly declares, "I am in a special place right now" by wearing them. This is wonderful in its own way. It is glamorous, and celebratory occasions need flowers.
However, DOMELLE belongs unhesitatingly to the latter: "Formal that Subtracts."
Not to decorate, but to stand tall with the "dignity" of form and material alone. There is a clear intention behind this. It is an approach to "correct only your outline slightly, without weakening your individuality."
Have you ever felt "worn by the clothes" when wearing formal wear, or felt uncomfortable as if you were wearing a different personality just for that day? DOMELLE does not accept that. By subtracting unnecessary elements and adjusting the "margins"—such as the material, the angle of the shoulder line, the opening of the neck, and the fall of the silhouette—your posture and demeanor quietly change. Not rewriting the wearer, but beautifully re-tracing their outline. That is the formal wear we believe in.
The Curse Named "Manners" Born in Japan
Let's broaden our perspective a little and think about the difference in formal views between overseas and Japan.
In the Western party scene, what guests value most is "how beautiful they can be to add grace to the occasion." Therefore, they boldly wear black dresses even at weddings. Black is treated not as a color of "mourning," but as the most prestigious "mode" color that makes women look beautiful.
On the other hand, how about Japan? There is a slightly strange scene often seen at weddings and party venues.
A style of wearing a glossy beige or pastel-colored satin dress with a sheer bolero or shawl. I am not denying it at all. It is a manifestation of the admirable Japanese attitude of trying to protect manners and consideration for others, such as "Do not stand out more than the bride" or "Do not expose skin."
But, let me be honest. When an adult woman tries too hard to fit into that "template," doesn't she sometimes look like she is wearing a "borrowed costume" or look like a generic "receptionist"?
What DOMELLE wants to propose is a departure from the "safe uniform" caused by excessive peer pressure, and formal wear as an "extension of daily life."
Formal occasions are opportunities to move from daily life to a "special place." But you don't need to become a different person there. DOMELLE's clothes take you naturally just "half a step" away from daily life to that special place. Your back straightens in an extraordinary setting, yet "today's you" does not disappear. That exquisite distance is the style we aim for.
The Genealogy of DOMELLE's "Subtraction" Seen in the Archives
Actually, there is no specific category called "Formal Line" in DOMELLE. This is because the element of formal is not a specific series, but breathes throughout all DOMELLE clothes.
There is an interesting episode. It was in our debut season, 23AW. At that time, we released a setup with a relaxed atmosphere like a sweatshirt. At first glance, it looked like casual wear. However, at a reservation event at a certain select shop, a line formed before opening, and it sold out instantly, requiring numbered tickets. According to the shop staff, many customers purchased it for "occasions like entrance and graduation ceremonies."
Why? It was because the clothes themselves made no "excessive assertions." If those clothes had frills or lace, the moment you matched them with a pearl necklace or bag, it would have become "too much" (information overload).
But because DOMELLE had thoroughly subtracted elements, it did not clash with the accessories, but rather had the "depth" to quietly accept the "individuality" added by the wearer. If the base material and silhouette are perfect, just adding one favorite accessory completes an amazingly sophisticated formal look. "The strength to be dyed by anything" and "High degree of freedom." I think that was the real reason why it was chosen by modern women.
That genealogy has been consistent from our debut to the present.
2023AW - The Origin Debut Season.
The satin dress announced at this time is truly a black dress where the "Material Speaks." A flowing silhouette that does not constrain the body, and a deep, wet-like gloss. Eliminating all decoration and establishing it only with the "fall" and "drape" of the fabric. All of DOMELLE's formal philosophy is condensed in this single piece that demonstrates its true value the moment you start walking rather than when standing still.
2024AW - Evolution And the second year.
In this season, we expressed the standard "Tuxedo Series" in the most simple style. It is the very origin of "Subtraction." The subtle luster of wool silk in the material, and the position of the buttons, the angle of the collar, the specifications of the pockets... Every detail has meaning, and there is absolutely no waste.
2025AW - Now And now.
The "Standard Wool Silk Tuxedo Series" lined up at the Isetan storefront.
These clothes seamlessly correspond from the daytime office to the night reception party just by changing accessories and shoes. Not "changing clothes," but "switching on" yourself. It is such a piece of clothing necessary for modern women.
"Black" is Not Just One Color. Monologue of a Material Geek.
To establish "Formal that Subtracts," what we are most sensitive about is the "Tuning of Materials." Especially for the color "Black," we have a fanatical obsession.
Did you know that there are many types of "Black"? Inexpensive synthetic black reflects light chaotically and appears whitish. This is fatal in formal settings, especially under hotel downlights or natural light.
What we aim for is "Black that absorbs light" or "Wet-looking Black."
For example, the Triacetate or Wool Double Cloth used this season.
For example, the Triacetate or Wool Double Cloth used this season.
When you touch it, there is a slight elasticity (bounce) that pushes back. This thick material texture does not pick up the body line too much, but creates a beautiful silhouette like a sculpture. Or, a synthetic material that has a squeak like silk. Choosing materials that appeal to the sense of hearing, where the sound of "cloth rustling" resonates pleasantly every time you move.
The color black cruelly reveals the quality of the material. Even without words, the aura emitted by the clothes conveys the quality. We believe that is the true identity of "Dignity"
As a "Kurogo" (Stagehand) to Highlight the Individual "You"
The clothes we make are by no means cheap. And there is no easy-to-understand brand logo, nor are there flashy icons that are recognizable at a glance.
However, isn't the most important thing in a formal setting not "which brand of clothes you are wearing (value of the tag)," but "how you look wearing those clothes"?
Do not hide yourself with decorations, but highlight your inner self with subtracted clothes. Like a "Kurogo" in Kabuki, clothes should merely be a background that highlights you. The protagonist is not the clothes, but you yourself.
There is no need to be intimidated. There is no need to be flashy. It is enough to have clothes that adjust your outline just a little. DOMELLE's formal is clothing to gently wrap you in "Quiet Confidence."
To take you, as you are, to that important place. Please touch that "daily life half a step ahead" at the ongoing POP UP at Isetan Shinjuku or at our handling stores.
In this weekend where the true cold of winter has returned. Let's pop the collar of your coat and walk through the city dashingly.