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Episode 8: "About Toilet Check"

Toile? Check?

It's a term commonly used in the industry, but it's probably not familiar to most of you.

Let me explain the language in the first place.


Toile is a French word that means a fitting sample.

That is, a prototype or a sample.

Before sewing with actual fabric, we create the piece using a fabric called sheeting, which is in its natural state with cotton grains (called neps) remaining.


The reason is that we first make a prototype, and if we think, "Oh, it would be better if the length was shorter," we cut it right there and then, or if we think, "It would be better if it was longer," we stick on some fabric and go through a process of trial and error, but the fabric we use for the actual product is very expensive, so we can't do that. That's why we use relatively inexpensive sheeting.


Then, from the world of images that is design, the pattern maker introduced in episode 4, "Marking is Serious Tetris", creates the pattern, cuts the sheeting, and sews it.


The completed prototype is then put on a mannequin or model to thoroughly check whether it matches the design the designer had envisioned, whether it is comfortable to wear, and whether there are any problems with making it out of the actual fabric.

This process is called "toile check."


Whenever I start this work, I can't stop thinking, "So cute!" or "So wonderful!" with excitement inside me. I never show these feelings on the surface. It's a very important process in which the product takes shape, and for designers and pattern makers, it's a serious job that doesn't allow for any room for relaxation. But it's exciting because we're creating something that doesn't exist yet in this world, and giving it a tangible form.


I just recently finished the toile check for next year's autumn/winter season.

It will be about a year before we can announce it, but it looks like it will be a fantastic collection, so please look forward to it!


A video showing the toile check pattern has also been posted on the brand's Instagram reels [@domelle_lookbook].






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